3/16/2023 0 Comments Topaz remask cuts choppyGet out that 100+ mm range zoom and pull the storm in close and tight. Having a fisheye lens in your kit for just such an occasion is great and don’t just use the 24–70 range standard wide angle look. Just as a very wide angle if the storm is huge, taken from a low position (inches above the grass, rocks, wheatfield, etc.) or alternately with a 70mm to 150mm tight view of just the leading part of the storm in a way that compresses the distance between you and the storm cloud and makes it look even more formidable. What are some common mistakes you see others making? Failing to Experiment with AnglesĪpart from relying on the auto settings, another thing to consider is that storms are dramatic, so your best dramatic perspectives are going to be using dramatic angles. During the late afternoon, with lightning, being able to shoot longer exposures without having to stop the aperture down to extremes will allow better opportunities for recording lightning. Bring along an ND (neutral density) filter for these situations. Apart from the time lapse, try several different settings for the storm: 1/100 of a second, 1/10, 10 seconds. You’ll fine it both exciting to watch but also a learning experience as seeing the passing motion can educate your senses in a way that you’ll be able to better anticipate opportunities at future weather events. Of course, taking it a little further, try some time lapses of storms. Clouds are moving, sometimes rapidly, and like ocean waves, getting that sense of movement can sometimes really add power to the scene, as if you’re watching it happen. Don’t be Afraid to Experiment with Exposure Lengthĭon’t assume you know what exposure length is best for a storm. If you’re already underexposed a bit, when lightning enters the exposure, it won’t blow it out so completely that it looks like a blinding white flash rather than the branching lightning you remembered. Try underexposing a 1/2 or 2/3 stop or more and see what you get. With big storm cells, the mood is in the shadows, so don’t trust the camera’s auto exposure explicitly. Set your exposure to get the best exposure of the main subject without over exposing. By setting a range for auto ISO to run from 100 to 800, for example, it doesn’t go too high, but for exposures where I’m over exposing the scene for a purpose, the shutter doesn’t slow down so much that movement is a problem. I adjust ISO to give me the ability to shoot brackets of exposures without slowing down the shutter. In manual mode, I can set focus to the point I want and forget about it for the ensuing shots in that scene. I try and limit the number of variables with scenes that change quickly. So the main suggestion I would offer, is to go to manual mode, manual focus, and definitely shoot in RAW, rather than JPEG, for the white balance flexibility in post editing. With lightning present, the ambient light can change literally from night to bright noon-day sun levels in a hundredth of a second.
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